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Question:
What are
ICF's?
ICF
is the acronym for Insulating Concrete Forms.
There are multiple types of ICF's but in general ICF's are rigid plastic foam forms
that are filled with reinforced concrete to create structural walls.
They hold concrete in place during curing and remain in place afterwards
to provide thermal insulation. ICF's are used to make structural concrete
walls, and can be used to make either foundation or above-grade walls.
The forms are typically made from pure foam-plastic insulation but may
also be made from a composite of cement and foam insulation or a
composite of cement and processed wood. The foam is typically either
expanded polystyrene (EPS). In addition to holding the concrete in
place while curing, ICF's usually provide a web system to hold rebar in
place properly spaced so that ties are avoided, and also a system is
provided in most (not all) ICF's to mechanically attach interior and
exterior wall finishes.
Question:
What are
the advantages of building with ICF's?
The
building will use 35 up to 70% less energy to heat and cool; it will be quieter
and will keep out more unwanted noise than a conventionally constructed
home; the house will have superior wind and fire resistance; the exterior walls are essentially impervious
to rot and decay, and overall you will experience a much more comfortable living
environment.
Question:
Do the AMVIC forms stay in
place after the concrete is poured?
Yes. The AMVIC forms are used to allow builders to pour a solid
concrete wall. However, upon completion, the forms are designed to provide
insulation, nailing surfaces, and a vapor barrier, all in one step.
Question:
How are doors and windows
installed?
A wooden or vinyl buck is built to the desired rough opening
size and incorporated into the AMVIC wall as it is being stacked prior to
pouring the concrete. Once the concrete cures, doors and windows are
installed as usual into this opening.
Question:
What Is EPS (Expanded
Polystyrene)?
EPS is constructed from
millions of tiny air cells fused in manufacturing to form a rigid
material. EPS contains no CFC's or HCFC's and has a zero ozone depletion
rating. In fact, it is totally inert and considered one of the best
insulating materials available.
Question:
Is the AMVIC ICF easy to use?
AMVIC ICF’s are the
most recently designed blocks on the market, and builders are consistently
giving them strong reviews for ease of use and enhanced speed of assembly.
The design of the AMVIC blocks makes them the easiest to use of any
system available. The blocks
arrive on site pre-assembled, and the straight block and 90 deg and 45 deg
blocks provide for almost all shape requirements.
If additional angles or curves are required, they can be
constructed on-site using straight blocks.
Little to no taping is required, extra reinforcement is reduced,
and the 6 inch spacing of internal webbing makes it possible to trim the
blocks to any length without requiring additional bracing as is
recommended with other manufacturer’s blocks.
AMVIC ICF's are lightweight and there is very little cleanup on the
job site once the project is complete.
AMVIC provides ongoing training classes
and optional on-site technical support
helping the project run smoothly.
Question:
How do you run
the electrical or plumbing?
Some of the utilities are
placed prior to the pour, and others are done afterwards.
Services access cavities need to be cut before the pour.
Just use a saw, utility knife or hot knife to cut through the blocks. Then
place the service pipes (or sleeves) in the openings. The gaps should be
foamed to prevent concrete leakage during the pour.
Wiring and Plumbing Once the pour is complete cavities for
wiring and plumbing can be cut into the surface using a router, chainsaw,
or hot knife. Place the services in chase.
Generally, the Romex will be a friction fit into the groove.
Occasionally a drop of foam is used to hold it in place much like a
staple. Make sure to observe all code requirements.
If vents have to be run in exterior walls, they may need to be
placed in the cavity of the block prior to the pour.
Generally, it is easiest to plan the layout of utilities to
minimize use of the exterior walls.
Download our electrical installation guide
Question:
Should you waterproof the
blocks when you use the AMVIC ICF below grade?
Yes. There are three parts to the below grade
waterproofing: French drain (foundation drain), waterproofing, and a
drain board – protection course. An ICF approved spray-on or roll-on
liquid waterproofing membrane such as AquaSeal Eco-Flex is recommended
from 6 inches above the finished grade to 6” down the footing. A French
drain tile system should be installed at the base of the footing and
covered with coarse drain rock. A dimpled drain board product such as
ProtectoWrap’s Protecto Drain 2000-V or System Platon should be installed
over the waterproofing to provide protection for the waterproofing and to
create an air space between the backfill and the waterproofing. When a
dimple board product is used, you can backfill with native soil.
Alternatively, there are membrane systems such as Polyguard 650 that can
be used instead of the liquid waterproofing, which are proven systems that
work well, although with more labor to install.
View the basement waterproofing tech report.
Question:
Do I need to worry about termites?
Maybe/probably/depends. This is very dependent on the area of your
building site. If termites are a concern for conventional buildings
in your area then they are a concern with ICF construction. While
termites don't feed on EPS like they do wood, they can tunnel through
EPS to reach a food source. While this is infrequent, and probably a
low threat in our Northern California environment there are several ways
of installing the block to create termite barriers that should satisfy
building inspectors. We can assist you with alternative
considerations.
Question:
How high can I build with AMVIC
ICFs?
A: Multi-story
structures can be built with AMVIC, one story at a time. At present
we've built to 8 stories. Each story
is stacked 9' to 12' and poured in 2' - 4' lifts in a continuous pour.
Question:
How is drywall attached?
Mechanically with
drywall / gypsum screws into the polypropylene webs. Frequently an
EPS compatible adhesive such as Foam2Foam is used with the screws.
Question: How do you
hang pictures? Normal
to lightweight pictures can typically be hung using a picture hanger with
a nail driven anywhere into the sheetrock just like in frame
construction. Heavier weight objects will need to be hung by screwing or
nailing into the imbedded web, one of which is imbedded in the block
running floor to ceiling spaced every six inches. The webs can be located
much the same as in frame construction using either a magnetic stud finder
(find the screws), or a sensitive electronic stud finder. Once you’ve
located one web the other webs will be easy as they are in multiples of
exactly 6” from there. If you need to hang something between the webs,
you can use a molly type anchor into the sheetrock just like you would in
frame construction. (If necessary in extreme cases you can use a
concrete drill and go back into the concrete and set a concrete anchor.)
Question: How are grab bars, towel bars,
other fixtures installed?
Fixtures can be screwed into the webs (there is one every six inches),
or installed using moly bolts through the sheetrock. Alternatively
backing can be installed between the sheetrock and the block. One
method is to use a hotknife and skin off 1/2 inch of the foam (flush with
the webs) and install a strip of 1/2 inch plywood that is screwed into the
webs wherever possible. Then fasteners can be screwed into the
plywood at any point. A second and easier method is to use Windlock
Grapplers™
(available in buckets of 50 from Amvic Pacific).
These are 4" x 6" perforated steel plates whose corners
dig into the foam and when sheetrock is applied over it they become firmly
locked in place. A fastener can then be screwed in at any
point and it will pierce and lock into the Grappler backing.
Question: How do you
connect internal
frame walls to the ICF wall?
For regular walls, if the stud lands over a web, screw through the stud
with a 3" deck screw and connect to the web. If it doesn't span a
web, you can use Grapplers (see above) or just spring the stud out and use
an adhesive such as Foam2Foam polyurethane foam, liquid nails or similar
and glue the face of the 2X to the foam. in the uncommon case where
the frame wall is a shear wall, then use anchor bolts or Simpson
Ties just like you're installing a ledger and bolt the stud to the
concrete.
Question:
How are exterior
finishes attached?
Stucco (acrylic or
cementitious) is adhered directly to the foam. Wood, plastic or
metal cladding is mechanically fastened to the imbedded plastic ties.
Stone and brick are attached according to design specifications.
Question:
What are the
physical differences between a AMVIC wall and a stick frame wall?
An AMVIC wall is
stronger, more soundproof, more resistant to natural disasters, better
insulated, has a superior R-value, is more energy efficient, reduces air
infiltration and benefits from the thermal mass of the concrete.
Question:
Is building with
Insulating Concrete Form an experimental construction form?
Definitely not.
Residential structures have been being built in the U.S. of formed
concrete since the turn of the century.
Thomas Edison built several homes of formed concrete in the 1900's that are still
occupied today. Stay-in-place
concrete form construction began in Europe in the 50’s and has been
widely practiced in Eastern Canada and Eastern U.S. since the 70’s.
Question:
Is a special concrete mix
used?
Generally walls will
require 3000 psi concrete or as specified by your engineer or code. Maximum aggregate
size is 3/4" and placed at a 5-6" slump.
Question:
What method should be used to
pour the concrete?
Concrete can be placed
using any one of several methods: concrete pump, conveyer belt, crane and
bucket or by a chute directly from the truck. A boom pump is far and away the easiest method
using a 3" or 2.5" reducer in the hose to reduce
the concrete velocity.
Question:
What kind of vibrator should be
used? An electric vibrator with a 1-inch to 1.25 inch head
and a 12-14 foot shaft. Rent a second vibrator as a spare
and to use in doing windows while the second vibrator is up on the
scaffold. You never know
what the probability of failure of a rental yard vibrator is and its not
uncommon to experience failures sometimes after only a short few minutes
of use.
Question:
I’m confused --- some ICF manufacturers
recommend vibration of the concrete, others say to rod it or tap the
outside of the form, and others say none of the above.
What’s right?
The word here is to
"consolidate" the concrete, which eliminates air pockets and
voids. Elimination of these
voids is required for the concrete wall to take on its full design
strength. It is
required by code and general good construction practice.
Consolidation has three basic accepted methods, internal vibration
with a concrete vibrator (this works the best), rodding (simply using a
rod or piece of rebar and poking through the concrete multiple times, or
tapping (tapping the forms with a hammer or other item). According
to the CSA and American Standards, "all site placed concrete is to
be consolidated sufficiently". Some manufacturers suggest you use the tapping method, and fill with a more fluid concrete (5-6"
plasticizer induced slump). The problem is that an inexperienced crew
often does not remove all the voids using this method.
A reason that manufacturers make different recommendations
regarding vibration is their concern for blowouts.
There are variations in the relative strength of the block systems
(during the pour and setting up of the concrete) from one manufacturer to
another. Those
manufacturers who suggest not to vibrate their forms in part stems from
this blowout concern. AMVIC
ICF blocks were specifically designed to be strong and tight enough to
resist blowout when they are mechanically vibrated with an internal
vibrator. Mechanically
vibrating the concrete in your AMVIC wall provides assurance that the wall
will assume its full design strength. AMVIC recommends appropriate
vibration.
Question: What's
the right way to vibrate concrete?
There is an excellent guide from Concrete Construction magazine that
answers that.
Click here
to view.
Question:
Why haven’t we seen more
ICF construction on the
West Coast?
The construction industry
changes slowly.
ICF got its start in more severe climates of the Northeast U.S. and
Canada where the energy savings were obvious and overwhelming. Milder
weather, abundant wood and business-as-usual made the west coast slower to
adapt this new technology. Rising energy costs, cost and quality of
lumber, and consumer demand have been changing this. ICF has been
gradually moving west, particularly into areas with significant needs for
air conditioning where the thermal mass of ICF drastically reduces
electric bills for A/C.
Question:
What will ICF
construction mean for the future value of my home?
As energy costs
continue to rise, and as ICF construction is more widely understood and
appreciated it is reasonable to project that ICF houses will command a
10-15% premium over comparable stick-built homes in the not too distant
future.
Question:
Will I be able to find
contractors and subcontractors who are familiar with and capable of
building with ICFs?
There are contractors
throughout the area that have built with ICF’s and others that are eager
to adapt to the technology. We
maintain a listing of contractors that are
familiar with ICF and AMVIC. In addition we
provide training for builders, that combined with site assistance from one
of our consultants should overcome any problems associated with a
first-time ICF build.
Selection of subcontractors will require a bit more screening than normal
... some are willing to learn new systems, and others may be inclined to
avoid the job by "high bidding" their bid. A little
shopping around should find subs who will work at prices comparable to
conventional construction. The only subs that have to do anything
different are electrical, and to some extent plumbing.
Question:
Are there limitations on what
kind of house you can build with ICFs?
No.
Virtually any design that can be built with conventional framing
can be built with ICFs with almost no limitations.
There are special engineering requirements however, to cantilever
out upper floors in a “garrison” style construction and it remains
simpler to contain all ICF walls directly over the wall below
Question:
Does an ICF-built house
look different than others?
From
the exterior, there is no distinguishable difference in appearance.
On the inside, the interior windows will be recessed deeper due to
the 11 inch walls and have more interior design articulation.
Question:
Do local building
departments accept AMVIC?
Yes,
however some local officials may have more experience with this than
others. Most of the Northern California and Nevada counties have approved
ICF projects recently. Most
building departments have dealt with ICF construction previously and are
knowledgeable about it. AMVIC's
system has been approved by the ICBO Evaluation Service, the primary
construction product certification organization in the country. The
ICBO report number is ER-5948. Download
this ICBO Report. If your onsite inspector is
dealing with his first ICF project, it may take a little education and
Amvic Pacific will assist you in that.
Question:
Do I need an engineer to review
my building plans?
ICF construction within seismic zones 3 & 4 (all of California
and Northern Nevada) require that an engineer specify the structural
elements of the design plan. Proper engineering will ensure
that your construction project meets with local code requirements as well
as ensuring proper design loads for hurricanes, earthquakes and other
natural environmental conditions. Our
listing of AMVIC
ICF-experienced structural engineers has qualified engineers for
California, Nevada, and most other western states. Engineers can
perform all of the calculations, or can use the
HUD Prescriptive Tables for ICF Construction, 2nd Edition.
Question:
Can
I construct radius and angled walls using AMVIC ICFs?
Yes. Radius walls are
constructed by removing sections from the inside side panel and bending
the ICF into the required shape. Similarly, any angle can be made by miter
cutting the form at the proper angle and using foam to join the edges.
Ninety-degree and 45-degree corners are manufactured to speed construction
since they are the most commonly used corner angle.
A newly introduced product/service from AMVIC is custom manufactured
curved blocks to build curved walls. Available in three standard
radii, if a custom radius is required, this is also available.
Contact Amvic-Pacific
if you are interested in this.
Question:
Can I leave this product
exposed to sunlight for extended periods of time?
Exposure of up to a year
should not pose a significant problem. However, the ultraviolet light of
sunlight will produce a light oxidation layer on the surface of the forms after extended periods of exposure.
This oxidation does not indicate any detrimental effects to the wall form.
If the proposed finish is to be a stucco (or other hard coat
material), it is recommended that the oxidized layer be brush away to
provide a clean bonding surface for the stucco materials. Ultimately the product needs to be protected with a covering
coat of material.
Question:
Does Expanded polystyrene (EPS)
present a serious fire hazard?
The potentially flammable
material in ICF walls is the foam. AMVIC is manufactured with a
flame-retardant additive; these foams, unlike lumber, will not support
combustion. Tests have shown that in the event of fire, EPS does not emit
any gases any more harmful than those emitted by burning wood..
Question:
I am concerned about mold and
mildew in my new building. Will building with AMVIC block reduce or
eliminate this problem?
Mold and mildew are not a
problem when building with the AMVIC wall system. Mold and mildew are
fungi that grow in a moist atmosphere. They tend to form on the
interior/exterior of walls where moisture condenses as a result of
surface/air temperature differences. (For example, interior warm air
contacting relatively cool spots on a surface becomes colder, increases in
relative humidity and condenses.) Once the fungus forms, it can discolor
the materials beneath it, deteriorate the materials' structures, and emit
particles that cause unpleasant odors or affect the health of the building
occupants. The AMVIC block will not allow condensation and resultant mold
or mildew growth on either side of a wall as there are no thermal breaks
in the wall; the inside wall remains at room temperature and the outside
wall remains at the outside ambient temperature. The AMVIC ICF form the
perfect air and thermal barrier.
When used below grade, the inside of exterior walls should have a coating
applied that allows moisture to pass through it should any moisture make
its way behind the surface. Water based latex paints
"breath" and allow any trapped moisture to ventilate.
Question:
How much does it cost to build with
AMVIC compared to other building materials?
This isn’t a simple
question to answer. Best case is that it the same or slightly cheaper than
framing with 2X4 construction. The
worst case is up to a 4%
greater project cost. The
walls themselves cost more than equivalent wood framed walls. That’s
only a part of the story however. With
an experienced crew, the walls will go up faster than stick framing.
There are construction savings on insulation, prepping for an
exterior hard coat, reduced waste, and on sizing heating and air
conditioning equipment, which can be reduced due to the thermal efficiency
of the AMVIC building. If you are building on a hillside and would need to
form a retaining wall, then building with the AMVIC system will be the
same cost or even slightly lower than building conventionally.
Probably the best working assumption is to assume either the same
cost as stick frame up to a 1-2% increase
in cost to go with AMVIC, and slightly higher to use other ICF block
systems.
Building with AMVIC is comparable in cost to building with 2x6 wall
construction. The AMVIC wall will give you an effective insulation value
of R32—much greater than a 2x6 wall—allowing you to save 50-80% on
your heating and cooling costs and rapidly becoming cheaper than stick
framing over a very few years. Contact your local rep, Amvic-Pacific for assistance in estimating your project.
Question: How
does AMVIC compare to concrete block or poured wall construction?
When cured, the concrete in AMVIC walls is 50% stronger and use
30% less concrete than traditionally poured walls. While the cost of a
bare block or poured wall is less, AMVIC provides insulation and furring
strips, and is ready to finish, making it a cost effective and less
labor-intensive choice. AMVIC
also is far less labor intensive to use where there are frequent openings
and/or popouts as are frequently the case in residential construction.
Question:
Can I see an actual AMVIC
project?
Yes. Contact
Amvic-Pacific 530-265-9085 ... we will let you know when the next project
will be going up in your area.
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